” A new journey to be started. A new promise to be fulfilled. A new page to be written. Go forth unto this waiting world with glass in hand, all you wine lovers, the open bottle awaits. Be creative. Be adventurous. Be original. And above all else, be brave. For knowing wine is your greatest ally, your greatest tool. Use it wisely.”
- Wonder Woman (Kind of...)

Tuesday, July 10, 2012

Macon- Villages by Pierrette and Marc Guillemot-Michel

Macon- Villages  by Pierrette and Marc Guillemot-Michel

Marc and Pierrette Guillemot own a Domaine of 7 hectares in the commune of Quintaine, adjacent to the village of Clesse.They took over the domaine from Pierette’s parents in 1985. Both are oenolgists from the school of Beaune and post-graduates from Montpellier and they have applied their studies to combine both scientific and homeopathic principles in their wine making.
On taking over the vineyard Marc and Pierrette left the Cave Co-operative system.Organic methods of production were used for the first three years as they believed this system made finer, more characterful wines. They use no artificial herbicides or pesticides and produce their own compost for the vines from a blend of marc (the cake of skins and pips left after the grapes are pressed) and manure from organically reared animals.
During the harvest, they systematically taste their way through the vineyards, tagging those vines whose fruit they think have markedly interesting characteristics and concentration. In February cuttings from these are taken to graft onto root stock and, gradually, the vineyards will be replanted with these homegrown, especially selected vines.

Limiting the size of the crop is one of the most important factors in the production of exceptional wines in the Maconnais. To restrict quantities, Marc and Pierrette only leave one  main stalk when pruning, rather than two as is traditional. This automatically cuts their potential crop in half.

Since 1991 the Guillemots have been bio-dynamic producers.  Bio-dynamic production is basically governed by the movements of the moon. For example, weeding at certain times in the cycle of the moon results in the weeds reappearing less quickly, an important factor when herbicides are not used. Bio-dynamics also involves putting back into the plant part of its production, hence the production of a compost from the marc of grape skins and pips left after pressing.
By far the major proportion of the Guillemots' production is of Macon Clesse, Quintaine. This lovely dry white wine has concentrated fruit and complexity and a richness and depth rarely found in this region. They have experimented with using oak, but feel that even five year old barrels give too much wood flavour to the wine. They prefer to allow the purity of the Chardonnay fruit to shine through.

The current vintage is 2009 ,however I always try to stash a few bottles of the older vintages away when I notice the vintage is changing and they truly show their  full character when about five years old. Even in relative youth it is a very fine Burgundy at €23.

Delicious, serious, attention grabbing wines.... in a contemplative kind of a way..... a bit like the people who make it I suspect!.

Sante,

Evelyn
 The Vintry

Saturday, May 19, 2012

Savennieres,Clos de St Yves, Baumard 2008



 Too often when we think Chenin Blanc nowadays we think of South Africa and its variable quality ranging from excellent to mediocre.Even I, a huge Loire Chenin fan, sometimes let it fall off my radar and literally forget to drink it, even though I have just to reach for the shelf and a choice of about six different examples.Savennieres is particularly neglected because you have to be so patient with it.Drink it too young and it is bone dry and quite acidic and that can put you off it for a while, but when you get it with the right bottle age, it is a supreme example of  complex elegance combined with viscosity in the mouth.resting ones.This Baumard Clos de Saint Yves 2008 is a just coming into its own now.It costs €21.95 and is a classic of its style and a fine wine by any standards.