DFJ. Pinot Noir, Alfrocheiro 2008

Delicate yet aromatic with ethereal  fragrances of violet and wild strawberry and a hint of smoke.
On the  palate it is soft and elegant with lovely balanced ripe fruit coming through and a soft round finish.
A real wine with true personality  for just  €11.95 and far more interesting than many a straight Pinot coming our of some other countries.

This  wine is a Vinho Regional from Lisbon in Portugal. It is a blend of Pinot Noir and Alforcheiro.

Alfrocheiro is quite obscure and being very productive yield wise as well as a relatively early ripener it requires careful  vineyard management.
It is an intriguing grape of misty origins. At one time thought to be a relative of Pinot Noir, today the birthplace of Alfrocheiro is assumed to be Portugal, but the jury is still out.
Wines from this grape are noted for their velvety texture, intense spiciness and approachability when young. They also display inky depths of colour and flavors of mint, flowers, black currants and fresh strawberry.




This particular wine is aged in French of Allier oak barrels of 225 Lt from Seguin Moreau for 5 months followed by ageing in bottle  for a minimum 5 months after bottling before release.
Produced from the Quinta de Porto Franco Single Estate it is a favourite blend of the winemaker Jose Neiva Correia. Those who know and work with this talented man make regular mention of his creativity and the enthusiasm that goes into each of his many and sharply differing wines with their blend of improbable grape varieties and surprising results.

Saude!

Evelyn
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Royal Oporto Dry White Port

  Pre-September 2007, all I knew of Portugal as a country was Albufeira's Strip and Clube Praia da Oura, now don't get me wrong I had long moved on from J.P. and Mateus Rose but it had never been a wine destination that I was longing to experience. The range of Portugese wines in Ireland had been quite limited until Kevin O'Hara started up his importing business, Grace Campbell, in 2003 after spending much of his summer holidays golfing there and seeing a  gap in the Irish wine market. Kevin introduced me to some serious Portugese wines with the whites in particular surprising me. He invited myself and 4 others from the on and off-trade in Ireland to join him in visiting some of these wineries.
 I think what shocked me mainly was just how stunningly beautiful this country was but also just how much Port a group of  6 could actually put away! There is nothing quite like a port hangover...

We flew into Oporto and were brought straight to Real Comapnhia Velha HQ where we were given an amazing lunch starting with Queijo da Serra cheese which is a runny cheese made from sheeps milk served with bread sticks, Jamon and olives. After the early start, travel and heat of the sun a glass of chilled white port went down a treat and it was served with ice-cubes made from orange juice which was delicious and refreshing. Their white port is made from traditional portugese grape varieties such as Donzelinho and Malvasia Fina and aged for 3 years in oak. It is made in the same way as regular port but fermentation is allowed to go on for longer before it is fortified with aguardiente ( similar to brandy). White port is usually drunk as an aperitif and served with almonds which complements it beautifully.  A beautful light amber/gold colour with a complex nose of nuts, peaches and herbs coming through. This is bone dry in the mouth with peachy flavours and the orange ice-cubes worked beautifully with it as did a handful of almonds.

 The tradition of adding grape spirit to Douro wines was in fact stumbled upon while trying to preserve these wines on long sea journeys however merchants soon realised that it improved the flavour of the then poor quality wines coming from Portugal. Due to poor quality and greed of winemakers in 1756 laws were put in place to protect the vines and production methods hence making the Port wine region the oldest wine region in the world to have boundaries set. It was Royal oporto itself that were put in charge of implementing these limitations by the King D. Jose.
 After a serious dinner and a little too much appreciation for Portugese wines none of us felt too superb the next morning as we set out for the Douro Valley. Despite the zig-zagging drive and the self-inflicted dodgy stomachs when we came around the bend and looked down on the valley for the first time I think we all let out a gasp. With the river Douro meandering slowly through the valley and the steep mountains covered in row upon row of vines running right down to the banks; it was serious picture-postcard stuff and a far cry from Praia da Rocha! Dotted along these hills were all the famous Port producers names laying claim to their vineyards; Cockburns, Taylors etc.

 We stayed one more night in Douro and managed to consume ridiculous amounts of Tawny port and food before waddling back onto the plane the next morning but it is a place that I will definitely get back to and the wines now have a secret place in my heart as with all these wine trips when you meet the people and see the passion for what they do, it is difficult for this not too rub off on you even when you are back on the dreary Naas Road trying to describe the joys of  chilled white port with some orange rind (for when the ice cubes seem a little OTT)


Royal Oporto Dry White Port €17.99  - try it one of these sunny evenings out back chilled with a shaving of orange and some almonds as you are waiting for the BBQ to heat up, you won't  be disappointed!

Till Next time

Clare
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Riedel glasses.

My favourite thing.....

When your working in the wine trade there are so many wonderful wines, things and places to discover it's hard to pick favourites. There all about the time, place and people you are  with. However when it comes to glasswear, there is only one company that i use and thats Riedel (pronounced like needle). 

It is the 11th generation of the same Austrian family that makes this crystal glasswear,  and they have been at the forefront of innovative wine  glass design since the late 1950s. Rather than making glasses that just look pretty Riedel steamware is made to enhance the characteristics of fine wine. eg. different shape glasswear for different grape varities.
Ten years ago the ides that the shape of a glass could make a differance in the taste of a wine would not have been taken seriously. Today, many connoisseurs accept this concept as fact. Credit to Mr Georg Riedel. His companys revolutionary wine glasses  have become indispensable tools in the full appreciation of great wine.

Today many wine lovers mention Riedel in the same breath as they might say Yquem, Mondavi, Gaja, Lafite or Antinori. Many  wouldn't be caught dead drinking these wines in anything but a Riedel glass. They have become the leading fine wineglass firm in the world producing 5.1 million lead crystal wine glasses a year. Winemakers and restaurants all over the world have adopted them.

In particular Riedel carved out a niche by producing dozens of glasses designed for specific wine types. eg Champagne, red and white Burgundy, young and mature Bordeaux, Syrah, Tempranillo, Riesling, Savignon Blac, Chardonnay and Sauternes.These glasses have proved to consumers that the pleasure of consuming wine starts with the glass.

 I cannot emphasize the differance they make. Go out and try it for yourself!!
Prices start at €11.50 each and go up to €65.00 for the Sommelier mouth blown crystal range.
Available in all good wine shops.

Cheers,

 Julie
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Nosey Tasters

Believe it or not the most honest wine taster is the beginner wine taster because beginners draw on authentic smells that already exist  in their smell memory rather than those suggested by others in their tasting notes .

Your nose is just like a big cave with hundreds of thousands of sensors connected to your smell memory so the flavour of  anything you eat or drink is more or less interpreted by your nose.

The mouth itself only detects sweet,sour,salt and bitter which in conjunction with the flavour helps you assess the balance of a wine.

However in addition to this the mouth acts as a little oven  having a warming effect  thus causing the aroma of things you eat or drink to travel up through the retro-nasel passage and this is then interpreted by the brain.

Wine tasting is a bit like learning a new vocabulary. If you do not have a memory bank of smells in your smell memory then it is impossible to recognise different smells when you encounter them.

It would be like me going to Japan .I dont speak Japenese. I never learnt it so I will not be able to speak it when I get there!

The same with the language of smell.

Solution: Smell things…The coffee before you drink it.The marmelade before you spread it.The fruit before you eat it.The flowers as you pass them.Your dinner before you start it etc.

 Follow your nose and you will learn the language  !

Kampai,

Evelyn

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Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2008

Yesterday was one of those perfect days ; sun was splitting the stones down in Wicklow, paddling pool was out, spending the day with my two gorgeous god children and bestest pal. There was no better time to splash out and treat ourselves to something a little special ... a chilled bottle of Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc. I have to admit that I find Cloudy Bay to be overpriced and overrated but Lisa had never tried it before and as she is a huge fan of this grape thought it was only right that she tried the wine that really put New Zealand on the map. 

  A few years back independent off-licences received an allocated amount of this wine per year and I would keep a couple of cases off the floor for those customers who would ask for it in hushed tones. Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc was like the Holy grail at one stage however since the big "R" has hit us all there seems to surprisingly more of it around!! Even the fact that this was the 2008 vintage said it all...

Cloudy Bay was established in 1985 by a Western Australian winery called Cape Mentelle in the Wairau Valley in Marlborough.  The cool maritime climate of this region suits the Sauvignon Blanc grape as it allows it develop steadily and slowly which gives those gorgeous gooseberry and asparagus flavours that New Zealand has become so famous for. 

Pale straw in colour. Gooseberries, limes and herbaceous aromas. On the palate the flavours are more tropical with pineapples and some apple evident. Much lighter and elegant than the majority of Marlborough big brands but also about two and a half times the price at €24.99. Really enjoyed it as did Lisa but don't know if that was down to the balmy evening and good chat or the wine itself. Admittedly nearly two thirds of the bottle was drunk before food was served up but we had a half glass each which washed the Panzanella salad and baked potatoes down nicely. 

Till Next Time

Clare

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Vega Real, Ribera del Duero

After a family barbecue on Saturday night, Sunday started a little sore. The weather from my bedroom window seemed overcast, which in view of my heavy head suited me to remain horizontal. I emerged at around 3pm, starving and to discover that my bedroom window may need to be cleaned. Blue skies and really warm. We decided on prawns and a big glass of Spanish red. I usually pick up some nice fat frozen king prawns in Superquinn but we had overlooked the fact that not only was every person in Dublin barbecuing but they had been to the supermarket at least 5 hours before us. After travelling to 3 shops we settled on a bag of uncomfortably small de-shelled frozen prawns.
The prawns were a disaster but the bottle of Vega Real made up for the rubbery- water injected- pretend shell fish.
This wine punches way above it's weight. A dark black cherry colour in the glass. The nose has the Spanish earthiness that always makes my mouth water, some dark red fruit and a slick of liquorice. The palate is smooth and full-bodied. The fruit ripe and big with a nice savoury finish.
Wines from Ribera del Duero are a serious favourite of mine. Try Crianzas and Resevas during the colder months and Jovens are ideal for barbecue season. All work exceptionally well with roasted or slow cooked meats but also mask cremated red meats very well. Forget scraping or binning just serve plenty of this and no barbecue guest will even notice. Best summer catering tip I've ever received and forget about frozen prawns - a definite no!
O&O

Ruth.

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Champagne Taittinger N/V

 




Champagne Taittinger is one of the few Champagne Houses to remain owned(see buy out / buy back below) and actively managed by the family.

They are based in Reims in the Champagne district and their bottles are stored in  ancient  Roman chalk pits  that were created when stone was quarried out to build houses in the region .  They also own substantial  vineyards throughout the region.

  

   Today, Pierre Emmanuel Taittinger heads up this famous house whose origins date back to 1734.
I met him at a dinner while at the Champagne  Academy and heard him telling the men at his end of the table that he never eats cheese when he is going to be with a lady.I got a flash back to the lads in Ireland…can you imagine a Paddy thinking let alone actually  saying “I never drink pints of Guinness or eat Kebabs when I am going to be with a lady! I don`t think so..

Each champagne house has a typical style that is adhered to from vintage to vintage and for Taittinger the word that best describes their approach is elegance. Some others can be quite creamy or nutty or overwhelmingly intense, but at Taittinger it is about the fruit being  allowed to shine.

The blend is 40% Chardonnay 40 % Pinot Noir and 20% Pinot Meurnier and is aged for three to four years before release

Colour: brillient gold straw colour with fine persistent bubbles and a delicate mousse

Nose: bready/brioche and fruity…peach white flowers and vanilla pod

Palate: lively ,balanced  and elegant  with delicate flavours of  fresh fruits and honey with a lovely long concentrated finish.

PIERRE-EMMANUEL TAITTINGER: TALKS ABOUT CHAMPAGNE FOOD& LOVE 
For 3OO years, Champagne has been known as the wine to drink at grand occasions, such as year-end holidays and weddings and graduations. But more and more, Champagne is becoming known as a wine to enjoy at lunch and dinner. Why? Because Champagne matches well all types of gastronomy: French, Asian, Greek, fusion, Chinese, Japanese, Indian. It's very good with spices because it does refresh your palate. Magnum bottles are just the right size for two gentlemen.  Personally I recommend the half-bottle for a lunch for two, say, me and my wife, so you don't waste a full bottle. I adore that.
If you are with a nice partner, you are not tired after Champagne; you are active, in good form, perhaps slightly excited. The only problem is that you might want to make love, and that is not a serious problem. That is why there is a new attitude towards Champagne all over the planet.

PIERRE-EMMANUEL TAITTINGER: TALKS ABOUT THE BUY OUT.
My family is a large one, with seven branches. The family wanted to sell the entire Corporation for tax purposes and simply to get their money. (Seagrams did likewise some years ago.) We put it up for auction and an American group, Starwood, bought it all - Champagne Taittinger, Domaine Carneros, the Loire valley winery, Baccarat Crystal, Hotel du Crillon, Societe du Louvre - everything. That was the will of 9O% of my family. Me, I was in the 1O% who wanted to keep the business. But - I am a democrat - and I had to accept the majority decision. And we do all get along well. My son and I were a little sad, but we had no choice. But then, Starwood stated, "We are a real estate group, we are not specialized in wines." So they decided to sell off Taittinger and Carneros to specialists. Then our branch of the family - my father, brother and children - decided to become candidates to repurchase at least our winery. So they put it on sale, and here were at least ten candidates, from India, America, Britain. So we banded with Credit Agricole, a powerful bank in Champagne, and fought a hard fight for a year with bigger giants. We finally won, partly because we proposed a large check - after debt absorption, about 59OM Euro - but also because we were a family-run affair, like Starwood itself. In the package was the Loire winery and Carneros. We sold the Loire for technical reasons; we liked the very well run winery and the chairman, a very nice man. It was done in a genial manner. But we're keeping Carneros. And we're still on good terms with our family, who can always get the preferred discount on Champagne!

PIERRE-EMMANUEL TAITTINGER: TALKS ABOUT GLOBAL WARMING.

 Global warming is the major issue for the planet. It's the Third World War, and we are in it right now. For the last ten years, the wine world has been positively affected by global warming - good harvest, regular harvest - but it's not going to continue. In the long term, it's going to change our way of life dramatically, and for the worst. I am very pessimistic about this. We're recycling, using vehicles less, driving cars with ethanol, and planning our business activities to conserve. We're avoiding unnecessary business travel, shipping wines by train instead of truck. We're extremely conscientious. At home, we don't take baths anymore, only brief showers; I think of water now as more precious that Champagne.

Taittenger Trivia

Taittinger was a favourite of the literary James Bond.Taittinger was actually Ian Fleming’s favourite Champagne,’ said Justin Llewellyn, brand ambassador for Taittinger and son of gadget master Desmond Llewellyn. We have a letter from  Fleming thanking M. Taittinger for a dozen bottles, and Taittinger was mentioned in Casino Royale, Moonraker, On Her Majesty’s Secret Service and Goldfinger.

The last time Taittinger made a screen appearance in the 007 series dates back to 1963’s From Russia with Love.

They approached Claude Taittinger for the next film, but he didn’t want
                                     to  be involved, and we never have been since,’ said Llewellyn.

Secret Agent Jones over and out.
THE VINTRY RATHGAR

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Lavignone Barbera d'Asti 2009

Tasted this with Ruthie for the first time about a year ago when she got it as a sample from one of our suppliers. The next day we both ordered it in and it has been one of our best sellers ever since. The Italian section in Cellars is growing by the week partly down to my love of Italian wines but also an increase in interest from our customers. Whether it is down to Irish tastes changing or more people holidaying there, the market share  in specialist wine shops has shifted and Italian wines are up by 50% on the first three months of this year in comparison to last year with New World wines taking that hit , hats off to the Italians...!

... and maybe a few other items if the picture (to follow) of these two brothers is anything to go by!!

 Pico and Vitaliano Maccario inherited this land in Piedmont from their grandfather. The former concentrates on the winemaking whereas Vitaliano is on the commercial side of the business; both as equally keen on getting the best from their land and in this case the Barbera grape. This grape thrives in clay soil and with the perfect altitude apparently between 150 to 300 metres, the hills of Mombaruzzo where Pico Maccario is situated is ideal.

We have recently switched from the 2008 vintage to 2009 and there is a much sweeter nose to this dark nearly purple coloured wine than previous. Amazing aromas of cherries, sweet plums and dark chocolate but the palate reveals a full-bodied dry and velvety wine with some  beatiful structure and fine tannins.

Myself and Ruth who need never worry about osteoporosis due to the amount of cheese we consume but who both have cholestrol counts which are at dangerous levels enjoy this particular wine with saint augur,  brie, aged cheddar, stilton... Do I need to go on??! It is also one of those wines that is so velvety that it can be enjoyed on it's own but also with any rich foods especially Italian - ravioli, pizzas, lasagne etc.

                                                                                                                       Deveney style "designer bag" !

Their whole range carries the same emblem which is pictured to the left and the explanation while a little long winded might be an ideal dinner party filler-inner! So here we go... The shield is meant to symbolise the goblet or wine glass. Roses are a sign of life as they are often used by winemakers in vineyards to alert them of any pests or diseases that might harm the vines. Also in the myths of Dionisus, the god of wine, they used to wear crowns of roses as they believed that roses had the power to prevent the revealing of secrets while under the influence of alcohol. If there was any weight in this last bit I can think of a couple of pals who could benefit greatly from carrying a couple of dozen roses around on Saturday nights!

One of my favourite wines in the shop at the moment and on special at €11.99 (Normally €13.99) , very affordable

Till Next time

Clare

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Pere Ventura, Cava, Rosat.

The final sparkling of our last Country Mix slot is a fizz that should appeal to those that find Brut Cava, n.v Champagne or Crements a little too dry. This is a semi-sec Cava from the Cava region of Penedes in Northern Spain.
This also won the 2009 Gold Star Award for Sparkling wine under €25.
A raspberry cool-aid colour in the glass with good bubbles. The nose is like a summer fruit salad of soft red berries with a slight yeastiness. The palate is strawberries with a creaminess, sweet fruit and good fizz.
When holidaying in Northern Spain a couple of years ago we spent a good bit of time in this Cava bar.Not an English speaking person in sight nor a seat or table. The set-up was slightly alien to us Irish. On purchasing a bottle of the 4 Cavas on offer you were force fed - for free!!. If seen from the high counter, four man deep bar by one of the fast speaking Cava bar employees they would harass you until you were holding something resembling red meat in a bun wrapped in a white paper napkin. The food was delicious and the more you drank the better both the Cava and the food tasted. So, as served in your local Cava bar try red meat with this Rosat, if this doesn't float your food pairing boat try one of Darina Allen's Summer puddings or just chill and drink instead of a Cosmopolitan- Worked well in my house last Saturday.
O&O

Ruth.

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Cesario Frizzante Sauvignon Blanc

This Frizzante is made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc and comes from a family-owned vineyard in Mittelburgenland in Austria. The Kirnbauer family started making wine in 1979 when Irmgard and Walter(husband and wife team) bought the land and commited themselves to making superior quality wines. They are still very much involved in the running of the vineyard together with the help of their son, Markus and his wife, Alexandra.  Markus and Alexandra visited us in Cellars a few months back to introduce us to their family's wines. He works full-time in the winery whereas Alexandra works as an airhostess however it was quite apparent just how passionate she is about the wines as she would hardly let him get a word in edge ways!

  Austria is mostly known for it's dry white wines with Gruner Veltliner apparently set for world domination however the Kirnbauers are red wine producers, working with indigeneous Austrian grape varieties such as Blaufrankisch and Zweigelt. They also make small quantities of a straight chardonnay, a gorgeous Eiswein and more importantly this gorgeous little sparkler which is made in the traditional champagne method with secondary fermentation occuring in the bottle.

                                                                                                                          The Kirnbauer Family

Back in 1985, Austrain wines came under serious attack when the media realised that a few Austrian winemakers were adding a chemical to their wines that was also present in anti-freeze. This chemical apparently was added to the wines to add body and some sweetness. The Austrians were accused of trying to poison the Germans who were their biggest export market at the time and it spelled disaster for their wine industry. This whole scandal was all a little exagerated as the chemical in question is actually less toxic than alcohol but the media had a field day on it and Austrian wines dropped off the radar for a while.  As a result of the scandal the Austrian government were encouraged to improve the quality of the country's wines and put many regulations into place and now 25 years later we are seeing some super wines coming out of here.

 I particularily love this wine of theirs as not only is it something diferent to offer those looking for a nice sparkling wine but also it is light and refreshing. Most sparkling wines are made from  Burgundy grape varieties or the Prosecco grape in Italy it is not so usual to come across a sauvignon blanc sparkling. It is crown closed somewhat like a beer bottle top so you don't get that same POP that you get with a champagne but it is a frizzante so has lighter bubbles than a champagne.  Served in the famous Austrain glassware Riedel (pictured right), it has a pale straw colour.It has a very fruity nose with white peach evident. It is refreshing and light in the mouth with fine bubbles. €19.99 on the shelf, a lovely summer alternative to Cava or Prosecco.

Apparently the name is a tribute to their collie-sheep dog, Cesar  who had just turned 1 when they launched this fizz back in 2002. Unfortunately they never considered the Italian meaning to the word Cesario when launching it as they now have the only sparkling wine in the world called after a Caesarean section...

Till Next Time
Clare
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wow wine gazette 5

    Man Caught Red  Boa`d  Handed Drinking Bad Wine

 As part of the WOW  girls ongoing battle to save the world from bad wine they have appointed Detective Sergeant Louise Carpenter to head up a crack unit dedicated  to stamping out the insidious practice of consuming crap wine.  Detective Carpenter formerly fronted  up the Head Shop investigation unit and brings with her a serious  reputation for her undercover skills.  During her tenure in that unit she is reputed to have infiltrated a complex labyrinth of these establishments successfully identifying the core hallucinogenics that were ultimately banned.

She has brought the same dedication to her new role using her undercover skills to embed herself within several dodgy bars and clubs reputed to be selling  the offensive liquid.She uses a blend of glamour coupled with brute force to convince unsuspecting patrons not to be lured into a life of bad wine.

"I know how easy it is to get sucked into this damaging lifestyle.  It starts with a sip of a really nasty wine in a club and rather than refusing to drink it there is peer pressure to just get it down your neck.  Life is too short to drink bad wine!", she is quoted as saying .

Her evangelical approach is already yielding results and she is frequently observed cautioning  nite club patrons if they attempt to purchase crap wine.  Failure to comply generally results in Detective Carpenter handcuffing the suspect to her wrist coupled with several stern words and  the brandishing of her  truncheon (pictured above).

To date the Detective has confined her investigation to  handsome, single, unattached  males between the age of 25 to35 and has stated that her ultimate objective is to exhaust every avenue in a bid to save these young men from themselves!
If  you are aware of anyone who fits these parameters and who may  need her help please send a full description, preferably with a flattering photo, to our confidential(!) blog and we will  get the intrepid Detective Sergeant Carpenter on the Case.

Happy Birthday Lou!

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